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Hello and welcome to the forums Icetnet.
I know that feeling. Its something deep down in the pit of your gut, and empty dull but very preset feeling... sick indeed.
I feel your pain - I've been there!
About your replacement PCB - yeah, a board with the same REV will work perfectly.
In fact, I'm almost tempted to say that with THAT particular drive, a cousin PCB could also work - but I cant swear, - I'll need to research that more.
WHERE to get it is a darn good question.
You could search Ebay / one of those places for a "dead" drive and try your luck.
There was also this Chinese source I should remind myself of - the guy there stacks up on a lot of PCBs and has them cheap enough.
Could you give us a pic of the 4 conduits you severed though?
Depending on how it is - you attempt to repair is, and as long as they arent too small, I think you really could in fact repair it 
Wouldnt be all that cosmetically appealing perhaps - but it would work fine ; ]
-All the best.
I was thinking about the repairs. I did a lot of electronics and PCB repairs in the late 80s early 90s, but these PCBs have some pretty tight foils. The pics show the severed runs just north of the 38 pin IC. The damage may have caused issue with a single run on the opposite side although it looks intact.
What would you suggest for repairs? Would an etching pen work?
As far as a cousin PCB, from the serial batch number and rev number, do I have to match further than that level?
Thanks,
Bill
Ahh, IC. I couldn’t see the picture at first - but the image properties stated 640 x 800.So I saved it locally - and was able to view it at full res to see the damage. Quite tight! lol But definitely repairable. It will take precision, and patience, but it can be done. I've had to do similar repairs in the past Fzkabar was thinking along the same lines I was (I think). He's experienced with the sort as well - so I shall be looking for more imput from you SIR! - and not just a drop by! 'HM! Yaw kung fu wey ghet week'! : p Now, to attempt a repair of this circuit, though feasible, will require that you have a bit of pass experience with electronics – or specifically – SOLDERING. Do a bit of reading – I’ve included a video further down – watch it – youtube for some more as well. Get out some old circuits – practice taking the components from them – and putting them back – work with your tool, and get accustomed to it. I’ve taken the time to write you a quick guide on this – I hope you find it helpful. (its also the reason for my late reply 
) What you'll need I think is: A strong magnifying glass (mounted preferably) A good WHITE light source (florescent) A Soldering iron with a CLEAN, Pointed tip. Solder A knife / wirecutter (my teeth did the Job initially). Old Cat5 Networking cable (the type you attach to an RJ45 connector). OR Old telephone cable (the ones that have the more rigid, small wires comprising it). Do point out, If I've left out anything that might be helpful Fbr. OK! Fortunately for you, your PCB is mounted by stander Starpoint screws – so remove your PCB using a starpoint screwdriver. Using the magnifying glass (preferably mounted) and in good light, study your circuit a bit. Examine carefully the routes of conduction previously accomplished by these 3 wires. (which are now rent) That is - look where each line was coming from, and where it was going - you should see a round, shiny point of origin (with a hole in it). As well as one that it went to (separated only by your inflicted cut of course). From here on, we’ll refer to these as POINTS OF ORIGINs or JOINTs. Now, While doing your preliminary examination, you need to ensure that none of the wires, at the point where they were severed, are now touching each other. Ensure that when they were sliced across, they weren’t displaced such that they are touching each other. You will need to do this - as I cant make out from the picture if this is the case. And it is important to ensure this before you proceed. What we're going to do with this repair is basically create a new line of conduction for this circuit using the wires from either of the 2 types of cable I listed above. The following instructions should help you through the process, given that we can fit some small wires, through the tiny holes of the points that the Printed Circuit Board’s conduits originate from. It’s a bit hard to explain remotely – but I shall do my best ^_^ A quick note: ALSO – where I say QUICKLY –work QUICKLY! This as not holding your soldering iron unto the circuitry for too long is important as prolonged heat could damage some components. Now, Other wires CAN work, but I've recommended these 2 above as I've used them with this application before. They're just about the right size, and rigidity depending on the Job I should mention at this point that it would be better to use the telephone wires for this Job, the reason being the strands that make up the wires (inside the cable) are…well STRANDS and not a solid piece of copper like the ones in your network wires. Also, they're a bit smaller, and should be able to fit into the holes into the points of origin. I’m going to hope that this is the type you’ll be using, and give you instructions as such – but the general process would be the same for the other preferred wire, except we wouldn’t go through the holes. If the holes aren’t actually pierced – then the networking wires are better! But I cant see if there are actually HOLES from your pic. Ok, after you've identified these points on your PCB, prepare your wires. Preparing your wires: 1. Cut them about an inch longer than the distance they'll need to cover. - use 3 different colors if you can. 2. Strip each end of the wires, such that about 2 MM of the actual wire is exposed 3. Hold the ends (the strands) between your index and thumb, and twirl the wire, just that the strands are bent, and bound together sort of.. (I bet u know what I mean ) Don’t do that too tight though – just so much that they’re together. 4. Now, see if your wire can fit through the hole in its twisted state. If it can’t, you’ll need to cut away a few strands of the entire bulk of strands with your wire cutter, then twist to get it to fit into the hole. (if you’re using a wire with a solid core, just see if it can fit!). 5. When you manage to get the diameter of strands (if any needs to be cut) to fit into a hole (that is the size of the ones you’ll be working with) – then do similar cuts / twists on the rest of your wires. 5. Then – Add solder to your wire: Don’t know how proficient you are with your soldering, but I’ll give you one lil tip my father gave my some years ago, that was the most helpful bit of advice my technique received: ‘the object when soldering, is not to melt the solder and drip it unto the job, but to get the JOB heated, then add the solder’ SO, apply to tip of the soldering iron to the wire, (heating your job) then, at another point (where the soldering iron does NOT touch directly) apply your solder. This video Should help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QznAAwL8rI What you’re doing here, is COATING your wires. – do this to all the wires, at each end of each wire. You’ll notice that the solder, once the wire is heated properly first – just glides over and covers the wire (wire strands/ core) So – you should now have 3 wires, with each end striped, and each end coated with solder. Next – you’re going to solder your wires to your circuit: 1. Trace to where the first broken wire’s point of origin was. 2. Make sure your solder iron’s tip is clean – and and pointy as possible (I usually shape, then coat mine – I’ll tell u how to do that if you’d like) 2.5(Work on the UNDERSIDE of the board (that’s the side that you showed me).) 3. Apply the soldering iron to the joint (point of origin) THEN QUICKLY HAVE YOUR SOLDER being applied to the same joint – try as much as possible NOT to touch the soldering iron with your solder – but the JOINT. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU NOT GET SOLDER ANYWHERE ELSE BUT ON A JOINT. USE ONLY An MM of solder wire – that’s ALL you should need. The solder should just sort of attach itself to the joint (point of origin). Now – we’re going to send a wire through this hole: 1. Mount the PCB somehow (between 2 books - or whatever) – just raise it, such that the underside of the joint is free. 2. Apply the soldering iron to the joint, while putting your pre-prepared wire there. 3. QUICKLY feed it through the hole. If you successfully completed this task – you’re WELL on your way to finishing this job, because the process is the same for all the others. Repeat the process for each joint, and each wire. Take the coated wire – apply heat to the solder coated joint (which YOU coated, by following the instructions above) then feed it through the hole as the solder of both Wire, and joint is melted. – then hold it there till the job solidifies. When you’ve completed doing all 3 of these – you’re practically done! Now, all you’ll need, is some hot glue to firm things up Man – I hope you get this! : P XD LOL. I’d be happy to give my help if you need any
) What you'll need I think is: A strong magnifying glass (mounted preferably) A good WHITE light source (florescent) A Soldering iron with a CLEAN, Pointed tip. Solder A knife / wirecutter (my teeth did the Job initially). Old Cat5 Networking cable (the type you attach to an RJ45 connector). OR Old telephone cable (the ones that have the more rigid, small wires comprising it). Do point out, If I've left out anything that might be helpful Fbr. OK! Fortunately for you, your PCB is mounted by stander Starpoint screws – so remove your PCB using a starpoint screwdriver. Using the magnifying glass (preferably mounted) and in good light, study your circuit a bit. Examine carefully the routes of conduction previously accomplished by these 3 wires. (which are now rent) That is - look where each line was coming from, and where it was going - you should see a round, shiny point of origin (with a hole in it). As well as one that it went to (separated only by your inflicted cut of course). From here on, we’ll refer to these as POINTS OF ORIGINs or JOINTs. Now, While doing your preliminary examination, you need to ensure that none of the wires, at the point where they were severed, are now touching each other. Ensure that when they were sliced across, they weren’t displaced such that they are touching each other. You will need to do this - as I cant make out from the picture if this is the case. And it is important to ensure this before you proceed. What we're going to do with this repair is basically create a new line of conduction for this circuit using the wires from either of the 2 types of cable I listed above. The following instructions should help you through the process, given that we can fit some small wires, through the tiny holes of the points that the Printed Circuit Board’s conduits originate from. It’s a bit hard to explain remotely – but I shall do my best ^_^ A quick note: ALSO – where I say QUICKLY –work QUICKLY! This as not holding your soldering iron unto the circuitry for too long is important as prolonged heat could damage some components. Now, Other wires CAN work, but I've recommended these 2 above as I've used them with this application before. They're just about the right size, and rigidity depending on the Job I should mention at this point that it would be better to use the telephone wires for this Job, the reason being the strands that make up the wires (inside the cable) are…well STRANDS and not a solid piece of copper like the ones in your network wires. Also, they're a bit smaller, and should be able to fit into the holes into the points of origin. I’m going to hope that this is the type you’ll be using, and give you instructions as such – but the general process would be the same for the other preferred wire, except we wouldn’t go through the holes. If the holes aren’t actually pierced – then the networking wires are better! But I cant see if there are actually HOLES from your pic. Ok, after you've identified these points on your PCB, prepare your wires. Preparing your wires: 1. Cut them about an inch longer than the distance they'll need to cover. - use 3 different colors if you can. 2. Strip each end of the wires, such that about 2 MM of the actual wire is exposed 3. Hold the ends (the strands) between your index and thumb, and twirl the wire, just that the strands are bent, and bound together sort of.. (I bet u know what I mean ) Don’t do that too tight though – just so much that they’re together. 4. Now, see if your wire can fit through the hole in its twisted state. If it can’t, you’ll need to cut away a few strands of the entire bulk of strands with your wire cutter, then twist to get it to fit into the hole. (if you’re using a wire with a solid core, just see if it can fit!). 5. When you manage to get the diameter of strands (if any needs to be cut) to fit into a hole (that is the size of the ones you’ll be working with) – then do similar cuts / twists on the rest of your wires. 5. Then – Add solder to your wire: Don’t know how proficient you are with your soldering, but I’ll give you one lil tip my father gave my some years ago, that was the most helpful bit of advice my technique received: ‘the object when soldering, is not to melt the solder and drip it unto the job, but to get the JOB heated, then add the solder’ SO, apply to tip of the soldering iron to the wire, (heating your job) then, at another point (where the soldering iron does NOT touch directly) apply your solder. This video Should help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QznAAwL8rI What you’re doing here, is COATING your wires. – do this to all the wires, at each end of each wire. You’ll notice that the solder, once the wire is heated properly first – just glides over and covers the wire (wire strands/ core) So – you should now have 3 wires, with each end striped, and each end coated with solder. Next – you’re going to solder your wires to your circuit: 1. Trace to where the first broken wire’s point of origin was. 2. Make sure your solder iron’s tip is clean – and and pointy as possible (I usually shape, then coat mine – I’ll tell u how to do that if you’d like) 2.5(Work on the UNDERSIDE of the board (that’s the side that you showed me).) 3. Apply the soldering iron to the joint (point of origin) THEN QUICKLY HAVE YOUR SOLDER being applied to the same joint – try as much as possible NOT to touch the soldering iron with your solder – but the JOINT. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU NOT GET SOLDER ANYWHERE ELSE BUT ON A JOINT. USE ONLY An MM of solder wire – that’s ALL you should need. The solder should just sort of attach itself to the joint (point of origin). Now – we’re going to send a wire through this hole: 1. Mount the PCB somehow (between 2 books - or whatever) – just raise it, such that the underside of the joint is free. 2. Apply the soldering iron to the joint, while putting your pre-prepared wire there. 3. QUICKLY feed it through the hole. If you successfully completed this task – you’re WELL on your way to finishing this job, because the process is the same for all the others. Repeat the process for each joint, and each wire. Take the coated wire – apply heat to the solder coated joint (which YOU coated, by following the instructions above) then feed it through the hole as the solder of both Wire, and joint is melted. – then hold it there till the job solidifies. When you’ve completed doing all 3 of these – you’re practically done! Now, all you’ll need, is some hot glue to firm things up Man – I hope you get this! : P XD LOL. I’d be happy to give my help if you need any
