11-10-2009 05:44 PM
I just bought a ST32000542AS (2 TB) this weekend to replace an external drive that was dying.
I successfully moved everything to the ST32000542AS (using a Vantec dock) before the old drive died. Yay!
But tonight, ultimate sadness -- after putting the drive in an enclosure, I found that the ST32000542AS will not spin up. Notes:
-- I've tried the ST32000542AS in the SATA hard drive dock I used to do the transfer, as well as three other external cases.
-- I've confirmed that other SATA drives work perfectly with all four of the devices referenced above. The problem is definitely the ST32000542AS.
-- With 2 of the external cases referenced above, the front LEDs just blink forever when loaded with the ST32000542AS. The power light on the hard drive dock just goes out immediately after being powered on. (Again, these devices still work perfectly with other SATA drives.)
To say the list, I'm a bit crushed right now. I need to work tomorrow, so I'm considering whether to buy another drive before Fry's closes tonight and spend all night restoring everything I can.
I've started a support request as well, but expert advice would be incredibly appreciated.
Solved! Go to Solution.
11-10-2009 06:18 PM
11-11-2009 08:02 AM
Thanks for the note. I don't currently own a multimeter, but I'd go buy one if it'd improve my chances of getting everything off the drive.
What's your thinking? That we'd get a better idea of why the drive won't spin up with those measurements?
11-11-2009 08:54 AM
11-11-2009 10:01 AM
I'm not confident that the TVS diodes are the problem, but it's an easy thing to rule out.
Excellent, I'll get a multimeter and report back.
In surprising news, Krista from Seagate support responded and said that they "don't support using Seagate hard drives in 3rd-party enclosures".
Is it widely known that Seagate doesn't support their drives (and presumably Maxtor drives) in external configurations like RAIDs, Drobos, and just ordinary external enclosures?
11-11-2009 11:39 AM
11-11-2009 04:03 PM - edited 11-11-2009 04:03 PM
If you know how to use a multimeter, then measure the resistances, on the diode range, between ground and each of the +5V and +12V inputs.
So, please be gentle if this answer seems really stupid...
Pin 7 - 50 kilohms
Pin 8 - 50 kilohms
Pin 9 - 50 kilohms
Pin 13 -0.5 ohms
Pin 14 - 0.5 ohms
Pin 15 - 0.5 ohms
11-11-2009 04:25 PM
11-12-2009 09:51 AM - edited 11-12-2009 09:52 AM
If you can trust your power supply, then you can desolder the diode, or cut its pins close to the body with sidecutters. The drive will work perfectly OK without it, albeit without protection on the 12V input.
To confirm that you have the right diode, measure its resistance by directly connecting the multimeter to its pins. If you are still not sure, read the numbers on the diode's body and let us know.
Man, you are the Hard Drive Whisperer. I can't tell you how much I appreciate talking with an expert.
The resistance was 0.2-0.3 ohms, and there's evidence that sacrificed itself (it looks like the foam above it got hot for a bit). If there is a number on the diode, I don't see it.
I do have a hard drive dock I trust. I'm trying to be frugal so it's a bit difficult to accept that I may just need to throw away $180, but there's enough data on the drive that I didn't have a chance to re-back up that it would be worth it.
Shame that Seagate support is so slow and seemingly only works from "is it plugged in?" scripts.
Is it possible to buy a replacement board?
11-12-2009 10:22 AM - edited 11-12-2009 01:15 PM
I took a deep breath, clipped the diode, and...the drive is working perfectly. I'm backing it up to a [brand redacted] drive as we speak.
I'll talk to support about the possibility of getting a replacement board. Hopefully they'll give me one or sell me one at a reasonable cost so I can keep buying and recommending Seagate drives.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I hope the good karma comes back ten-fold!