03-12-2009 05:04 PM - last edited on 03-12-2009 08:02 PM by BradC
I bought 5 days ago ST315005FDA2E1-RK. Obviously, had I read the reviews on the item I would not have made the purchase. At any rate, it's been purchased.
my question is:
is there a means / method / utility for determining the serial number of the physical hard drive that is inside the enclosure? I wish to determine if it is one of the drives requiring the firmware fix, but in order to do that I need the serial number. I also don't wish to open the enclosure because I might have to make use of the RMA.
p.s. if opening the case is the only method of getting the serial number, I'd like to know that as well. Honest answer is better
p.p.s: In this thread http://forums.seagate.com/stx/board/message?board.
so, bottom line, the answer AlanM provided is NOT accepted solution. (Why is he flagging it as accepted? Did he check his own answer? I'm sure he's got access to a freeagent drive so he can definitely verify for himself if the s/n of the enclosure is identical to the s/n of the physical drive inside. Heck - they dont even have the same part numbers.
point number 2: My drive IS AFFECTED, because it's making the clicking noise and its failing right out of the box. AS EXPECTED.The good news is that Im prepared.
SIMPLE QUESTION: HOW CAN I GET THE S/N OF THE PHYSICAL DRIVE INSIDE THE ENCLOSURE WITHOUT OPENING IT?
MODS: please provide a VERIFIED correct answer (preferably verified by yourself), I've done my best to make the question as simple as possible because it's obvious you guys don't bother reading the questions carefully.
People: please flag this post as abuse so that the mods can re-read the question, and get a second chance at answering it. The "phone a friend option" didnt work, maybe another lifeline might help.....
thanks in advance for reading. Extra thanks for thinking about the answer.
Solved! Go to Solution.
03-12-2009 05:45 PM
incidentally - i do empathize with the plight of Seagate customer support.
read the following post:
I work for Seagate. I was there when the fit hit the shan, and I saw everything going in internally, as well as externally.
I really love my job, so please excuse the sock-puppet nature that creating a brand new account and claiming to be an authority on the subject I must seem to be. But I am a geek, and I really think you all need to know the true story behind the scenes.
This whole thing started with the 1.5 Terabyte drives. It had a stuttering issue, which at first we all thought was a simple bad implementation of SATA on common chipsets. Seagate engineers promptly jumped in and worked to try to duplicate the issue and prove where the problem was. This wasn't a massive rush as 1.5tb drives are what? 5% of the drives on the market. When it became obvious that the issue was more widespread, they buckled down and put out a couple of firmware revisions to fix it.
Now, in the 1.5tb drives, there are 2 main revisions. the the product line that gets the CC* firmware, and the line that gets the SD* firmware. They came out with firmware CC1H and SD1A to fix these issues and started issuing them.
But, seagate has always been restrictive of handing out their firmware, so such updates required calling in with your serial so that the people who had access to hand out the firmware could check a) model, b) part number, and c) current firmware just to make absolutely sure that they were giving the right firmware out. This has been a procedre that has worked for YEARS up until now.
Then the bricking issue came to their attention. It took so long because it's an issue that's hard to track down - pretty much the journal or log space in the firmware is written to if certain events occur. IF the drive is powered down when there are 320 entries in this journal or log, then when it is powered back up, the drive errors out on init and won't boot properly - to the point that it won't even report it's information to the BIOS.
This is a rare, but still obviously bad issue. Up until now, we all figured it was just some standard type of failure, as it was such a rare event, so we'd RMA the drives.
So, for whatever reason, mid management started freaking out (as it could be a liability for seagate, I suspect - ontop of the already potentially liable issue of the stuttering problem causing drives to fail in RAIDs). So, they pushed the release of the SD1A firmware to the general public. They took a few days to 'test', though it was mostly just including some code in the batch file that kicks off the firmware updater, to check that it is a BRINKS drive, and the proper model number. Then it was kicked out to the public.
Please understand, this firmware had to go through five different checks to make sure it applies to the specific conditions to qualify sending to a customer, before now. 5 chances for us to go your drive needs the other (or none) firmware update. Suddenly, it's down to ONE check, and even that was more designed for a contingency just incase the wrong firmware was sent out.
Of course, it starts bricking drives.
Right now, the engineers are crapping themselves, the firmware's been pulled, the support agents are told to say "The firmware will be released soon" and no real procedure to fix this issue is in place. Our phones are flooded so bad that it locks the system up when there are too many calls in queue, and emails are coming in at hundreds an hour.
We simply cannot keep up.
The good news is, the chance of your drive simply not spinning up one day is very low. And for those of you who flashed the wrong firmware - be patient. It's not bricked, just unable to write data to the platters properly. When they have a *GOOD* firmware out, a new flash should un-brick the drives. If not, flashing it back to SD15 should make it work again.
Seagate really pushes the idea of being open and honest as much as we can without being sued to heck. They let agents make choices and use their skills instead of scripting us to death. They worked hard to bring their support back to the USA.
Seagate does care about their customers. They just got caught with their pants down, twice in a very short period of time! So, they're wanting to double, triple, and quadruple check the firmware so it doesn't brick anymore drives.
As for why it takes so long before an issue is reported and before seagate makes an announcement - we get a dozen 'reports' of issues that are really just one-off problems a day. It takes time for an issue to be 'significant' enough to escalate to the product teams, and time before they can provide a fix.
I hope this clears up a few things. I may or may not be able to answer questions if you have any.
03-13-2009 07:46 AM
The serial number can be found in the log file of ST for Windows.
It is named as the drive serial number (ironically) and is located in C:\Program
Files\Seagate\SeaTools for Windows
03-13-2009 08:22 AM
I stand corrected!!!
AlanM is correct - the log file will tell you the internal serial number!
Thank you again!
p.s. Now I need detailed instructions on how to pop this enclosure, i need to transfer the drive into Macally aluminum case.
preferably a youtube video..... theres tons on how to dismantle freeagent2go, pro / but not one for this cheeseball silver enclosure.
03-13-2009 08:55 AM
03-13-2009 09:45 AM
main flaw with the enclosure it that its hideous.
secondary flaw is lack of power button / only miniUSB connector.
tertiary flaw is plastic enclosure and passive cooling.
Macally case solves all the above for my purposes: it looks "Apple Macintosh-y", it has power button, esata, firewire. Also the billet aluminum looks cool, is cool, and will cool the hard drive.
also, Macally case kicks seagate plastic case in a steel-cage match. Plastic doesnt stand up to tank-like construction.
03-13-2009 11:32 AM
Haha, fair enough.
I see that you had asked about the Seagate warranty policy. You can see it here.
03-13-2009 12:43 PM
wow, i managed to pop the enclosure open without any damage whatsoever. Thats good because in case you need to RMA you can always put everything back nicely.
1. pop the unit down so that it is facing you (i.e. it's lying horizontal / flat; make sure the seagate LED is in front of you)
2. use a very thin plastic card to pry the TOP off. Pry from the right/back/left. The front piece will come off last.
3. Once the back, left and right are separated, you will notice that the front is held in place by two plastic "posts". Jiggle the top piece so that the post starts to separate. Be careful not to break the tabs.
4. Once you pop the top off, it's fairly straightforward to take out the drive. Mounting to the cage is via 4 torx screws underneath the rubber feet/shock absorbers.
5. remove 3 micro screws securing the aluminum cage from the usb port, power, etc.
6. Pop the drive so that it is free from the cage, wiggle it away from the sata & power connector.
7. make sure to clean all metal parts with alcohol, you don't want any greasy fingerprints on the metal.
8. Replace Seagate drive with Western Digital!
re-assemble and enjoy.