FreeAgent Theater and GoFlexTV

[a2z5678]

Like so many others, I've been frustrated with the poor performance of the remote control.

After some thought, I noticed that the the flashing LED (that is probably supposed to be confirming that it is receiving an IR transmission) is located within the IR remote receive window on the front of the unit and therefore may be interfering with the IR reception.

So, I disassembled the unit, and I found that the LED is located in front of and somewhat off to the side of the IR receiver.

As a safe fix, I tightly covered the the LED with a piece of electrical tape and found that the remote now works much better.

I wasn't willing to risk simply snapping the LED off, since I was concerned that it might be wired in series with the IR receive circuit, but if someone is willing to risk bricking their unit - and it works - please post because that would be a much simpler to implement solution than trying to get the tape to stay tightly sealed.

PS.  You are on your own - I'm not responsible for any damage you cause to your equipment or yourself.  I have fair amount of experience with electronics, and I am not recommending disassembly of their unit to anyone.

I will tell you that I found 5 screws on the bottom of the unit - one under each foot and one under the center sticker, as well as a small tab between the top and bottom along the back edge that holds the top and bottom together.

[rievax · Accepted solution]

I removed the filter/lens from the front of the IR receiver.

Now I can point the remote in almost any direction for the player to respond.

[a2z5678]

Thanks rievax!  I pulled the lens, and that is definitely the fix!

[rievax]

I found a slight problem. I sometimes would try to put USB plugs into the open hole by mistake.

I have fitted a cover made from a 12mm wide strip of clear stiff plastic  like found on bubble packs or shirt boxes.

 I folded it into a square bottom U shape and slipped it into the opening.

When I cut the strip, I actually left it a bit wider at the middle so that it cant be pushed in too far.

[prairiedog]

Kudos to you too for actually doing something about this.  Could you post pics and/or video of this?

I want to clarify, did you open the FAT up then remove the lens?  Or does it pop out?

I think this thread should be stickied!  The remote issue has always been a problem with the standard remote.  It's not a problem with the Harmony remote, however.

[rievax]

Its best to open the player. For those attempting this on carpert and/or live in a dry climate, do please research "ESD precautions" first.

There are 5 Torx screws in the bottom, one under each rubber foot and one under the sticker near the "CCC" symbol. The "size" has been rubbed off my Torx driver, Im guessing its T8.

The lens is held in place by the front edge of the PCB. Removing two screws is enough to be able to lift the front edge of the PCB then slide the lens up with something pointed.

 Someone here might find a neater way of making a clear platic lens while the player is open.

I reattached the rubber feet with contact cement.

I have done this sort of mod to other AV equipment and sometimes worry about possible side effects.

I have noticed no problems yet.

[a2z5678]

I used a T9, but a T8 fits well enough that either size works.

There are three more torx screws internally that need removed to tilt the board up at the front in order to get at the clips holding the lens onto the base.

[tony55]

Found this post very interesting. After a couple of years of complaints, someone finally opened up the device and found something obviously wrong with the device right from the begining.

I haven't opened up my devices yet(4). But I guess I will since I've been meaning to open them up one at a time and drill out some breathing holes.

This is another fault with the Fat+. The bottom of the unit has an open area(a 2x2 square). However, most everybody knows hot air rises. So, where are th vent holes on the top????. Not there.Their are none.

So when I fix my remote sensor I will also drill a hole in the top for egress of hot air. I do this on so many devices. For the Fat+ I figure a 2" hole done with a hole saw will be just fine. To fill up the opening I'll glue a peice of screen material over the opening.

It's amazing. Doing this will change the life expectency of a device from a year or two to 20 years or more.

Finally, before I pull the red filter I thought I might just try to stick a short peice of 1/4" black irrigation hose  over the LED. Seems like it might be simpler, but I wont know til I open it up.

Anyway, much thanks to the origional poster. For more than a year it's been an ongoing complaint with no fix other than...CHANGE the BATTERIES.

Tony

[rievax]

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prairiedog wrote:

 The remote issue has always been a problem with the standard remote.  It's not a problem with the Harmony remote, however.

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I have compared the IR output level of the FAT+ remote to other typical remotes I have here.

There is little difference in levels. Its actually a bit better that my TV remote.

The Harmony remote might have a much higher output but I don't have one to test.

EDIT: I tested the original filter/lens. It attenuates the IR transmission by 80%.

[KSG]

Great thread!  How do I give a thread kudos?  This should be added to the FAQ.