Other External products

[Thomireland]

Hello,

My External Desktop drive - 500GB model by Seagate (2GHJAVF8) has stopped working - approx 3 months old. initialization failure, constant green LED flashing - No noise. Obviously tried different PC - checked cables - Maybe the power plug to the drive has failed?? Need assistance or to return drive, I live in Ireland.

Message Edited by Thomireland on 11-30-2009 05:29 AM

[esparto100]

Hi,

I found that someone had plugged the wrong power cord and now the green light flashes quickly

when I connect it to the correct power source. It now doesn't work - one was 20v, one was 12v and expect that something has blown as a result. If you find out any more on what has happened to your, I would be really interested to hear - my comment is only a hunch.

[Thomireland]

Hello Back,

I plugged my Laptop Power cable into my external desktop drive (A 500GB model in a screwless black plastic case). It was a simple accident, due to both the drive's power cable and my laptop connector being identical. I had over 400GB of music and movies on there - I have since ripped the drive out of the enclosure, without actually damaging anything, I plugged the Baracuda sata drive into my Desktop but the drive is as good as dead, The circuitry of the enclosure is fine though, I have tried my spare laptop sata drive on it and it works great.

I don't blame Seagate, It was my own fault, I have already gone and bought 3 new sata HDD, all from different maker's and enclosuer's to fit them in. Simple rule: MAKE MULTIPLE COPIES OF YOUR DATA ON MUTIPLE HARD DISKS! at the end, you'd expect these drives to withstand most common user mistakes.

[fzabkar]

Don't despair. Your drive probably has a shorted 12V TVS (transient voltage suppression) diode. You can desolder it or snip it out with sidecutters. The drive will work quite happily without it, albeit without protection on the corresponding supply rail. Just be sure your power supply is OK.

See the photo of the PCB in this article:

http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html

If you need one of us to help you identify the diode, then upload a photo of your PCB to an image hosting site and post its URL here.

For continued protection, you can replace your diode with an SMBJ12A (12V) or SMAJ5.0A (5V). These are available from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.

[Thomireland]

Hi fzabkar ,

Interesting responce, Yes I would like my drive working again, even long enough to get my data off it. The power supply of the unit is fine and I always ran the mains for a surge protector.

I looked at the Diagram on the link above and have seen TVS diodes, to gain access to these I must remove the PCB and pull out the diodes (There are two labeled on the picture from the site, small black things..) using a sidecutters? I know nothing of soldering nor how to replace the diodes but I can try to remove them by pulling them out. If I am unsure I will certainly upload a photo.

Another question - If I bought the same model and removed the PCB and put it on the old one would that possibly fix it? 

Please advise,

The Model Of the affected drive is:

BARRACUDA 500GB 7200. 12

FW: CC35

[fzabkar]

Please don't "pull out" the diodes. You could possibly damage the copper traces. Use side cutters to snip the diode's pins close to the body. It really is that easy, unless the board has suffered additional damage.

A PCB swap *may* work. However, if the drive clicks or has difficulty reading, then you will need to transfer the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip from patient to donor. This is because this chip contains the "adaptive" data that were determined during factory calibration.

Here is the tool I use:

http://myrobotkit.com/images/sidecutters.jpg

[Thomireland]

Hi fzabkar,

I didn't remove the PCB yet, simply because I do not have the right tool at my possession, it looks like a micro 'Allen-Key' type screw, neither do I own a suitable small Sidecutters  - Thanks for the advice, I think I understand a bit more, I Just need to 'snip' the pins. I don't think any other damage has occured, I obviously will treat the device with care, it is now in a antic-static bag and it always ran fom a good surge protected mains, a simple mistake led to this problem.

In the shop I purcahsed the unit, they are sold out and won't be getting any more, at least not before XMAS.

I am looking to buy a suitable sidecutters and tool to remove the PCB and I would rather post an image of the PCB before attempting anything, It's a shame you don't live around here!

[esparto100]

I'm about to go out and get the gear now.

Will take a photo and post and wait to hear back on which one I need to cut.  

If this doesn't work, do I scupper my chances of restoring using another method?

Thanks

[fzabkar]

Without seeing the drive, I expect that the tool you need to remove the PCB is probably a Torx screwdriver.

As for what to do if diode removal fails, a PCB is the next thing to try. If that doesn't work, then you may need to swap the EEPROM chips between the two boards. That requires a temperature controlled soldering iron and good soldering skills. The EEPROM stores drive specific calibration data determined at the factory.

Search this forum for "TVS diode". There have been many successful DIY repairs.

[esparto100]

At last I have opened the casing and have taken a photo.

NOt sure how I post a photo however.